Saturday, June 9, 2012

Depth of Field Test


The Depth of Field Test at The Black and Blue

The first part tests your knowledge of the basic principles of depth-of-field while the second part tests your ability to accurately guess the amount of depth-of-field with a real-world situation.This test is divided into two parts.
Best of luck!

Basic Principles

    • 1. Which camera or lens setting has no effect on depth-of-field?

      •  
      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 2. When a point in the subject or scene registers also as a point on film or video, it is referred to as being __________.

      •  
      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 3. True or false: the size of the finished film or video image (projected, TV, Internet) has an effect on acceptable focus?

      •  
      •  
    • 4. What is the approximate ratio of depth-of-field in front of and behind a subject you are focused on?

      •  
      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 5. What is the closest distance at which the far limit of depth-of-field extends to infinity called?

      •  
      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 6. Stopping down the lens __________ depth-of-field.

      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 7. Opening up the iris of a lens __________ depth-of-field.

      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 8. Getting closer to the subject you’re focusing on __________ depth-of-field.

      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 9. Adding a filter in front of the lens without adjusting the exposure __________ depth-of-field.

      •  
      •  
      •  
    • 10. Using a 35mm film camera as opposed to a 16mm film camera for the exact same shot would cause depth-of-field to __________.

      •  
      •  
      •  

Guess the Depth-of-Field

In this section, you are given a situation and must guess the depth-of-field you have. You may assume that the camera is shooting 24 frames-per-second with a 180-degree shutter.
  • 11. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    ARRI 435 Camera, 50mm Lens, F-stop 2.8, Subject at 6 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 12. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    Canon 7D, 28mm Lens, f-stop 5.6, Subject at 10 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 13. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    ARRIFLEX SR3, 16mm film, 100mm lens, f-stop 4.0, subject at 25 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 14. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    RED One camera, 4K Resolution, 85mm Lens, f-stop 2.8-4 split, subject at 12 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 15. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    RED Epic Camera, 18mm lens, f-stop 8, subject at 50 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 16. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    ARRI Alexa, 35mm lens, f-stop 1.4, subject at 8 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 17. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    Canon C300, 70mm lens, f-stop 11.0, subject at 42 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 18. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    RED Epic, 2K Resolution, 25mm lens, f-stop 2.8, subject at 20 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 19. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    Two-thirds broadcast camera, 35mm lens, f-stop 4.0, subject at 15 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  
  • 20. How much depth-of-field do you have with the settings below?

    ARRI 435, 35mm film, 200mm lens, f-stop 5.6, subject at 100 feet
    •  
    •  
    •  
    •  

Think You Understand Depth of Field? Take the Black and Blue DOF Test to Find Out


Here’s a little bit from Evan on the test:
So you just started using DSLRs and you think you’ve got an idea and you think you’ve got an idea about this newfangled “depth of field.” Or maybe you’re an experienced professional AC and you know the depth of field chart by heart for a 40mm Master Prime. Regardless of your experience level, depth of field is an extremely important concept to wrap your head around if you want to shoot with large sensor cameras (like those DSLRs you might be using DSLRs you might be using). Camera Assistant Evan Luzi over at The Black and Blue The Black and Blue has created a quiz with 20 questions to test quiz with 20 questions to test your depth of field knowledge.
Do you know what depth of field is? Are you able to calculate it with just the power of your mind?
Well, it’s time to put you to the test.
I’ve prepared a 20-question Depth of Field Quiz that’ll scrutinize your knowledge of the basic principles of DOF and your ability to accurately guess the amount of depth of field in camera setups.
It’s not easy — but I have a feeling you’re up to the challenge, so give it a shot:
Depth of field is an essential concept to understand in filmmaking — because if you want people to watch your film, it has to be in focus. Understanding how f-stops, sensor sizes, and distances affect the amount of your frame that is in acceptable focus is an important skill. The artistic choices that can result from expert knowledge of depth of field can enhance the effect that a shot has on the viewer. It’s very common to see super-shallow depth of field in videos online, but razor-thin depth of field is an artistic tool (and a possible by-product of no light and large sensors) like any other that can be used to your advantage. One of the better uses of the shallow depth of field caused by the gigantic sensor in the Canon 5D Mark II (same sensor size as the Canon 5D Mark III) was the season 6 finale of the television show House M.D., which used the depth of field to enhance the emotion in certain scenes.
On the other hand, deep depth of field — even though it has fallen out of fashion thanks to large sensor digital camera — is expertly used in the Orsen Welles film Citizen Kane. While that is the most famous example, there are plenty of films over the years that have utilized greater depth to their advantage. If you would like to see more examples of shallow depth of field used in a professional setting, the DPs of the Starz series Boss with Kelsey Grammer — which happens to be shot on the Arri Alexa — work almost exclusively at T1.3 or T2 with Arri/Zeiss Master Primes.
Does anyone have examples of movies or shows that utilize shallow or deep depth of field to their advantage? If so, feel free share them below in the comments.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

7D support Current status


Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki


7D support

 

Current status

7D under development
AutopilotAdded by Autopilot
Support for the Canon EOS 7D is almost frozen, having a running version of Magic Lantern might never happen.
Thanks to an anonymous donor we have a test 7D body and can produce a firmware dump from it.
The problem is handling the 2 instances of DryOS, one for each Digic. Currently we can generate signed firmware images and we have dumped the 7D's ROM for analysis, but we do not know how to hijack task execution on the Master/Slave (2 headed) DryOS instances. We are only able to produce a dumper and some debug functions. See See 7D_internals7d_intercom
  • Apply this bspatch to the 7D 1.1.0 firmware (instructions and details) to generate a dumper firmware with md5sum f9d720f38c7991f9526d4b34e21c7d7c. Follow the normal "Update Firmware" procedure to write out a ROM0.bin file with the memory starting at0xFF00_0000. The entry point is at 0xFF01_0000.

Available firmwaresEdit

  • EOS 7D fw 1.0.9 (19 Oct 2009)
  • EOS 7D fw 1.1.0 (5 Nov 2009)
  • EOS 7D fw 1.2.1 (15 Apr 2010)
  • EOS 7D fw 1.2.3 (25 Nov 2010)
  • EOS 7D fw 1.2.5 (26 Apr 2011)
Downgrade from the last two versions available only through EOS Utility!


What we know:
  • Device ID 0x8000250
  • USB ID 0x319a
Further USB details in PTP page.

With New Magic Lantern Firmware, Canon DSLRs Get Real-Time HDR Video*


With New Magic Lantern Firmware, Canon DSLRs Get Real-Time HDR Video*

12.21.11 @ 12:28PM Tags : 
Is real-time High Dynamic Range imaging, ala RED’sHDRx, coming to Canon DSLRs with the next version of Magic Lantern firmware? Well, yes and no — thus the asterisk. The system they’ve developed splits a 24p stream into two 12FPS exposures, one high and one low, and then interpolates the frames. It’s an interesting hack, demonstrated here:
It should be available tomorrow for the Canon 60DT2i, and T3i. More details from the Vimeo User Group:
  • Cinevate HDSLR Products
You will get two streams at half frame rate. For example, if you record 25p, you will get two 12.5fps streams. Interpolate them to 25fps and use your favorite HDR software to blend the frames. Our workflow is cross-platform and uses only free software: enfuse, AviSynth, InterFrame and VirtualDub… Will it work on 5D Mark II, 50D and 500D? Maybe. Right now there are some synchronization issues on these cameras. More details coming soon.
While this has a limited application, it looks like an interesting addition, and quite frankly even RED’s more advanced HDRx exposure hack has limited capabilities when shooting motion. More on that soon.
Also coming in the next firmware: variable frame rates. They are limits and the cameras can overheat quickly, but here’s a peak at the feature:
Link: Magic Lantern Wikia page (HDR feature should be available as of 12/22)
[via CheesyCam]
Light Craft Workshop

Related Posts

  1. New and Improved Magic Lantern AJ5.0 Firmware for the Canon 5D Mark II Released
  2. New Magic Lantern Firmware Doubles Video Bitrate of 5D Mark II (Updated with Video)
  3. Magic Lantern Firmware Now Available for Canon T2i/550D

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Seven Things I Wish I’d Have Known When I First Became A Photographer


Seven Things I Wish I’d Have Known When I First Became A Photographer

MARCH 19, 2012
Photo by Scott Bourne - Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons
They say you master something once you’ve made 10,000 mistakes doing it. If that’s true, then I must be a Grand Master at photography because I seem to have found a way to make 20,000 mistakes. As I talk with young people about photography some of the same misconceptions and questions come up over and over and I realized – I wish someone had taken the time to sit me down and share a few things with me when I first started out that would have saved me at least 5,000 of those mistakes. So here goes nothing. I’m going to let you know what I would have liked that advice to be.
1. Do not spend any time making serious photographs if you are not seriously passionate about it. Every bad photo I ever made started going bad because I wasn’t really into it. I was just going through the motions. It’s like kissing your sister so to speak. You have to care about what you are photographing, how it comes out and what story the image tells or you’re going to be disappointed.
2. Understanding how your camera REALLY works, as in every button, every switch, every menu and sub menu and sub, sub menu, will save your bacon over and over and over. The camera needs to be an extension of your eye – not something that gets between you and your subject. Learn how to use your camera and stop changing systems so often in the great hope that the NEXT big thing will make you better. It won’t. Learning how to get 100% out of what you have right now WILL!
3. Speaking of gear, focus as little as you can on gear and as much as you can on your subject, their story and how you’re going to share it. The “hey you take good pictures – you must have a good camera” line gets old. I guarantee you that it’s not the camera that makes the shot – it’s the photographer. It took me a VERY long time to figure this out. As a geek and a tech head I kept jumping into the science side of photography and the gear and the gadgets thinking THAT would save me. It didn’t. It sent me backwards. I now realize the gear is nothing more than the hammer looking for a naill.
4. Find the light first, the background second and the subject third. This statement will be controversial to many of you – some of you will yell at me because I said it. That’s because you haven’t made the 10,000 mistakes I had to make to understand it so go ahead and yell, but once you stop yelling pay attention and you’ll save yourself some pain. EVERYTHING starts with light. I can have the prettiest subject in ugly light and get no shot. And if the background is distracting, nobody notices the subject. So start with great light. Seek it out. Know it. Search for and yearn for it. Love it. Bathe in it. Dream about it. Then go find it in front of a nice clean background and THEN put your subject right there. You’ll win every time you do that.
5. If you photograph people or make pictures professionally understand that being nice is better than being good. When I listen to the people who primarily buy photographs (women are responsible for most portrait session purchases) they constantly refer to their photographer as nice. I rarely hear them say that he/she is good. My point is not that you don’t have to be good – you do. But concentrate on being nice. It took me far too long to realize how important this is and I am STILL working on it – as many of you can attest.
6. The best photographs in the world happen when the photographer or the subject or the viewer or some combination of the three are in a place where there is solid, real emotion and/or love. I know this sounds corny but if you can learn to love the subjects you photograph, you’ll take more care and make fewer mistakes. If you find real emotion in your work, you’ll cause others to feel those emotions. Thinking this doesn’t matter is the biggest photo-related mistake you can make. It took me 10 years of photography to understand this. Hopefully (and likely) you are smarter than me and you’ll get this right sooner than I did.
7. I have to stop this list somewhere so I’ll stop here with this. Understand that serious photography is about protecting memories, telling stories, keeping moments in time that have passed alive for the future and sharing all of the above. If you can think about that every time you press the shutter, you’ll make fewer mistakes and become a great photographer.
If I could have had this conversation with myself 30 years ago, I’d have become a good photographer MUCH sooner. I hope I at least helped you do that because it’s too late to do it for myself. I had to bungle through this crap on my own. No wonder I”m considered “cantankerous!”
Best wishes!